I’m going to tell you guys how I wax my snowboard. It’s important to wax if your board can accept wax into its pores. Because it helps you to glide faster and move quicker.
I beat all your friends if you’re racing, I’ve seen a lot of like contests out kids make and break their runs because they either have the right or wrong lacks on it.
The worst thing ever is applying the wrong style of laps or not having wax and knuckling a jump to get yourself hurt.
I’m going to walk you through kind of the simple steps that I would take if I was going to go and ride my board. First, for any given style temperature, you need a couple of different tools that are good sports specific to snowboarding.
Gummy stone for your edges and clean those edges up with a steel brush. For cleaning the clean base, a nylon-style brush is for applying a structure at the end and brushing out the wax.
A nice sharp scraper, all temperature wax, and a flat bottom non-hold style clothing iron as a sport-specific ski and snowboard iron.
Now just remember when you’re waxing that you can get high tech into it and low tech.
This is the low-tech version for basically anyone for that you know twelve-year-old kid who’s going to be waxing for the first time or that dad who wants to wax their wife’s skis or snowboards.
Now there’s hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons there are overlays and like pretty nutty crazy like technical stuff and again we’re just going to walk through like the simple old temp wax kind of category.
If there are any blemishes along the edge or any blemishes within the base you need dirt corrosion pollen or anything of that sort.
The reason that you want to check your edges with your gummy stone or your stone by laying it flat is you want to make sure that there are no burrs or cracks that could disrupt the surface of your iron.
If your iron gets like a scratch in it and you’re like waxing you’re born in you can cause a little bit of damage to the base.
So, it’s always good to make sure that you have nice smooth edges. If they need to be filed down, of course, they can do that but a gummy stone, for the most part, will help you feel those burrs and I cannot you’re like smooth those burrs out once you’ve done that.
What I like to do is brush the board with a steel brush instead of using a chemical compound to remove wax from the pores.
I’m a firm believer that all porous boards should always have wax constantly built up within those pores to kind of like to retain their wax longer and to keep that a smoother Glide throughout the board’s lifetime.
Sometimes in a board, you’ll notice along its edges it kind of becomes gray. That means the board’s base has been kind of stripped of all of its moisture or all of its wax. And that means that you need to apply wax and again.
That’s why I’d like to use a steel brush to kind of clear it out. Like any kind of debris that may be in the pores like dust pollen dirt etc. all you have to do is go from tip to tail, I’m a firm believer in that as well. Never-never go against the grain or go you know kind of perpendicular to the rails.
Always go parallel with oils and you can apply a good amount of pressure and you’ll see that there’s a little bit of wax still in this board. Right now of Hensley brush out you ply a good amount of pressure on it.
I always like to go can past my contact points even though you’re your board has certain contact points of snow. It’s always good to brush and wax past those contact points as well once you’ve checked your edges.
Negative 10 degrees to positive 40 degrees and goes all over the place as long as you’re applying wax to your board when it’s dry it’s going to be a good thing. You can’t go wrong with all temp just for daily use.
If you’re a racer of course you probably have a coach or a waxed technician that can kind of guide you in a specific direction.
But applying the waxes there you’re the fun part and I enjoy waxing because it’s kind of therapeutic. You have a long day you’re thinking about what you’re going to do next the next day when you’re riding it’s kind of a good day.
A good way to like throw us music and just kind of chill up. All temple acts are easy to apply and make sure your iron is set at a proprietary. This has three different styles of settings.
Whatever you do you don’t want your iron to be smoking when you apply the wax to the iron. And you want it to be warm enough that it melts the wax.
I go in kind of a set structure when I’m dripping my wax. I go along one rail go on the other rail down the center and then do a zigzag pattern in one direction and then a zigzag pattern back it’s pretty simple.
It’s a lot of fun also when you’re doing this make sure you have a little bit of an angle to it and try not to wear any nice shoes. Because you probably get some wax on them.
I’m a firm believer in actually doing a how to apply more wax than not enough and you never want to set your iron even if you feel confident enough in yourself.
Leaving it like that just don’t do that because the dust tip-over is going to close out any pores underneath the surface.
So again always wax past those contact points and I like to go in smooth fluid motions not like not back-and-forth a lot like I just did past my contact points. But nice slow motions from tip to tail or tail to tail and you don’t have to apply any weight.
Just let the wax and the temperature of the land melt the wax and report if you’re waxing a board with your bindings mounted, make sure you loosen the screws.
You don’t have to take the bindings off but at least loosen the screws so there’s not a lot of applied pressure if you heat your base quite a bit when you’re waxing.
Sometimes I can pause Kozik and epoxy kind of separate. Especially if you’re binding to crank down tight so if you’re watching board with mounted bindings loosen those things up. Scraping it’s always good to start with a very sharp scraper.
If you have the opportunity to get two different papers that are even better get one that’s thin so you can like to flex it out again.
Those kinds of tough hard-to-reach spots if your board has little divots and things and then get one cannot thick scraper to plow through.
In those first kinds of couple of sections, I like to go from my nose to my tail and never go from side to side. I’ll just go tip to tail just keep it that simple and remember when you’re scraping to have your scraper at this ink of like pulling it along not pushing it out.
Usually, I like to apply my thumbs up on the backside scraper going to use the front to like kind of help flex it out just a little bit but again you’re going to need to use a lot of pressure.
You need to like remove all the wax from the surface of your board. The purpose of watching a board is to get the wax inside of the pores not lay on top of the surface of your base. So as much wax as you can get off the better that’s a smooth face.
Now would be the time when it’s so much better as well. I just audio convene here’s it’s just going to be me like talking cool after you’re done scraping or you think you’re done scraping it’s always a good idea to do the thumbnail check.
Just scrape the bottom of the board if you have a little bit of residue. That’s okay if there’s a lot. I just continue to Reece crepe you can use different kinds of leggings to kind of see if there are any lower or higher contours of the base that may still have wax on top or in them.
But again get as much wax off the top of the surface as you can. Because their wax is meant to be inside the pores and then lastly take your nylon brush and brush it from tip to tail.
That’ll go along it’s like the counter the natural structure that the board will have surprisingly enough.
When you’re snowboarding your board causes friction. When you’re riding it has a very thin layer of water between the base of your board in the actual snow the quicker that water can move from tip to tail or tail to tip if your attic switch the better, the faster that you go in really cold conditions.
If you want to like kind of have like a Polish-style base with a nylon brush and really warm conditions, you want to have like bigger structure. So, if you have a harder-style nylon brush that can be even better.
But for the most part, Nayla is a simple nylon brush reading the horse hair to reduce set a stretch static electricity that’s always good too. But if you don’t have accessibility to brushes, you can use it as just a regular Scotch Brite pad to clean your base and to add structure and brush out.
Once you’re done, waxing again hit the tail put some pressure nice overlapping strokes, and brush past those contact feds this hit is looking good actually, and there you have it.
Ladies and gentlemen that’s how I wash my board use a couple of tools gummy stone to check the edges, a steel brush to clean out the base, all temperature wax for just daily writing, a simple snowboard-specific or ski-specific iron in a nice sharp scraper, make sure to check your ID, just check your base, apply the wax smooth it in, scrape it out brush it and you’ll be good to go. You beat all your friends in Chinese downhill.
All right guys that’s all about how to wax a snowboard Hopefully, see you guys on the slopes
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